Guide to Boa Vista

Beaches

Boa Vista's beaches are the sort you don't think still exist in the 21st century. Think vast swoops of sands untouched by anything or anyone. And seas ruffled by white-crested rollers. All laid out beneath vast canopies of blue sky. Let's start with Sal Rei. The shores around the town are gilded by immaculate beaches and seas so clear you can see the sunbeams stippling the seabed. Along the town beach, Diante, fishing boats speckle the sands and local children dive off wooden jetties into the pristine waters. Further along, at Estoril and Cabral, houses and apartments rise up along soft dunes mingling with a few watersports huts and simple beach bars. Then there's Salines beach – a cashmere-soft curve lapped by translucent waters great for snorkelling. And talking of watersports, Boa Vista's got plenty on offer. Take off on a diving or snorkelling trip to gaze at trumpet fish and multicoloured parrotfish. Or skim across empty bays on a windsurfer. And back on land, even more eye-popping beaches await. Hire a jeep and trundle across the desert to Santa Monica. Hailed as Cape Verde's finest beach, its gold dust sands seem to go on forever. And more often than not, you'll have them all to yourself. Or head east to neighbouring Curral Velho. Another wondrous stretch of sand, it's exquisite to the extreme. And they're not the only ones. You'll find similar, sun-baked chunks of paradise all around the island – just waiting for your presence, picnic and parasol.

Eating out

Like everywhere in Cape Verde, Boa Vista's food is a fusion of Portuguese, African and Brazilian flavours. Most dishes revolve around fish - tuna, swordfish and grouper are all big favourites. The shellfish is great, too. As well as lobster and crab, crayfish is a regular feature on most menus. Another must-try is 'caldo de peixe', a hearty fish soup, which is made by adding fresh fish to a sizzling broth of tomato, garlic and potato. Eating like a true Cape Verdean also means sampling 'cachupa'. This satisfying combo of maize, beans, potatoes and meat is a complete meal in itself.

Nightlife

• Party animals and Boa Vista probably don't mix. When it comes to nightlife, it's one of the quietest islands in Cape Verde. In the main, evenings are relaxed, slow-burn affairs. Cue romantic suppers on a beachside terrace. And barefoot strolls along the sands as the sun paints the sky orange and red. If you fancy upping the tempo though, the hotels usually stage theme nights. Listen to some live 'batuko' music – hypnotic fast-drumming inspired by Cape Verde's original African slaves. Boogie to chart pop at a disco. Or take in some authentic 'morna'. Boa Vista is the birthplace of this Cape Verde music, which marries the mournful melodies of Portuguese 'fado' with insistent African and Brazilian beats. It's intense, mellow and utterly addictive. There's no need to stay at your hotel to hear it, either. Just trot on down to Sal Rei. Around the main square, locals sit outside, chatting and playing 'uril' in the last fading rays while some strum 'morna' guitars, tripping out the bittersweet songs that tell of love and longing. Linger awhile and then head for a friendly bar. They're sprinkled around the town and beach and are thoroughly laid-back. Whichever one you end up at, you can bet that 'morna' or its energetic sister, 'funana', will provide the soundtrack. Order a sweetened 'grogue' – known as 'ponche' - and before long, you'll be right in the middle of an unplanned party. And by then, there's only one thing to do. Join the throng and sing and shimmy your way to midnight as the moon climbs high in the sky.
  
  
• Pub Makena, Sal Rei Desperate to catch that Champions League game? This buzzy pub obliges with Italian snacks and big-screen Euro footie.
  
• Crystal Disco, Rabil One of Boa Vista's few nightclubs, this is the long-time favourite. Catch the lively disco bus from Sal Rei square at 11pm on weekends.
  
• Dancing Silva 'Seridja', Sal Rei This no-frills bar spins tunes on the ground floor while serving 'capucha' upstairs. Things don't get going until around 1am.
  
• Tortuga Beach Bar, Sal Rei Strut the sands south of Sal Rei and you'll hit this welcoming beachside haven, which hosts live music most nights in high season.
  
• Estoril Beach Resort, Sal Rei Station yourself on a blue-painted barstool at this wood-roofed bar and the chances are you'll be here for the duration thanks to its great drinks selection and friendly crowd.

Shopping

Shopping-wise, Boa Vista is about as far from Oxford Street as you can get. The towns on the island, Sal Rei included, only have a few modest and largely makeshift shops. We're talking little nooks hawking African woodcarvings, tie-dye dresses and batik tapestries. Music stores stacked with sun-bleached boxes of 'morna' CDs by Cape Verde's favourite songstress, Cesaria Evora. And minimarkets stacked with the basics like tinned foods and sun-cream. If you're intent on souvenir hunting however, your best bet are the streets west of Sal Rei's tourist information centre. This is where you'll find a few handicrafts shop. Otherwise, just go where the town's cobbled roads take you. Here and there, you'll stumble on a pastel-coloured cottage with its door ajar and the sounds of 'morna' seeping into the air. Poke your head inside and the chances are you'll be greeted by someone's front room piled with trinkets for sale. Cue colourful clay dolls, woven baskets, bongo drums and beaded jewellery. Or check out the Municipal Market on Sal Rei's square. Here, a clutch of stalls buckle under the weight of crates filled with fruit and vegetables. But for trademark Boa Vistan mementoes, catch an 'aluguer' to Rabil. As well as a few small shops, it's got a working pottery where you can watch the islanders hand-make decorative floor tiles and clay crockery and then buy them as gifts. Other popular purchases include ornaments and toys made from coconut shells. Or snap up a game of 'uril'. Played with seeds as counters, it comes in pocket size sets and is similar to backgammon - except you're meant to eat your competitor's counters as you play. But top of the tourist shopping list has to be 'grogue'. This heady sugar cane brandy is 43% proof but once you're home, one sip will transport you right back to Boa Vista in an instant. And that's more than enough reason to return with a bottle or two.

Location

7km to Sal Rei

Transfer time

Approximately 10 minutes