Guide to Hurghada

Beaches

With 20 kilometres or so of seafront sweeping round a crescent-shaped bay, Hurghada has plenty to offer in the beach department. Most of the larger hotels have their own private beaches, with soft sands and calm, gently shelving waters that offer safe swimming for kids, not to mention a good play area for Mum and Dad, where you can try your hand at some of Hurghada's famous watersports, from jet skis to windsurfing. There are also a number of public beaches if you fancy a change of scene, some of which charge a small entrance fee but offer good facilities. For example, there's the Old Vic Tourist Village, which has a large sandy, south facing beach that's well sheltered and good for families. Or there's the wild and wackily named Mangroovy Beach to the north in El Gouna, just perfect if you want some quiet time. If you're into snorkelling and don't mind venturing a bit further afield, it's worth checking out Sharm El Naga, around 40 kilometres south of Hurghada. It's got a white sandy beach and a sheltered coral reef where you can get right in among the colourful fish. Alternatively, hop on a boat and take a trip to the idyllic hideaway of Giftun Island. It's a protected nature reserve, its waters simply teem with life.

Eating out

• When it comes to cuisine, Hurghada reflects Egypt's 'crossroads culture'. The country is a gateway between Africa and Asia and you get a taste of both continents in many of the traditional dishes, which are often meaty, yet also subtly spicy and fruity. Of course, Hurghada is a cosmopolitan resort, so if you choose you can eat just about anything, from burgers to pizza, from tacos to noodles. However, it's also easy to find authentic local fare, particularly in the backstreets of the El Dahar quarter. Grilled meat kebabs are very popular, usually served with salad, tahini sauce and pitta bread, ready for you to combine into a sandwich for easy street eating. Falafels - balls of spiced fava beans or chickpeas - are also a popular fast food, as are dips like houmous, 'tahini' and 'babaganoush' - aubergine mashed and mixed with seasoning. As for main courses, one of the most popular is 'ful medames', which many Egyptians think of as their national dish. Once again it's pulse-based, comprising mainly mashed fava beans. Egyptians are also partial to vegetables such as peppers, aubergines and courgettes stuffed with spicy rice fillings. When it comes to desserts, baklava tops a list of pastry and honey delights. But you may instead be tempted by the succulent fresh fruit, including figs, dates, orange and pomegranates, any of which will certainly get your tastebuds tingling at the end of a meal. Many Egyptians are strict Muslims, so shun alcoholic beverages in favour of strong coffee and fruit juice. That said, this is not a 'dry' country. Alcohol is widely available and there is even a local beer, rather cheekily called 'Stella'. It's not the best lager in the world, but it's drinkable and comes in nice, big bottles to ensure your thirst is well and truly quenched. If you're worried about getting a decent cup of tea while you're away, don't be. The Egyptians have a long tradition of tea drinking, borrowed from the Arabians and, while the version you're served may be a little different from what you're used to back home, it will be nonetheless tasty and refreshing.
  
  
• Mafia, Hurghada Located in the Esplanada mall, this is a popular Italian restaurant that serves a reasonably priced menu of favourite dishes, including pizza and pasta.
  
  
• El Joker, Hurghada You'll find this friendly, family-run establishment in Sekala Square. It serves good fresh fish and seafood cooked to authentic Egyptian recipes.
  
  
• La Gondola, Hurghada This panoramic restaurant located in the Hilton Plaza hotel offers magnificent views over the Red Sea. The mainly Italian food is pricy, but it's worth it for the outlook.
  
  
• Alaa El Din Cafe, Hurghada The Sindbad Al Mashrabiya Hotel is the setting for this delightful restaurant, which gives you a real taste of old Egypt. If you're lucky you'll be serenaded while you eat by traditional Egyptian musicians.
  
  
• Cafe Trottoir, Hurghada If you're in the market for a light meal or a pastry and a cup of coffee, this is the place for you. It's a delightful cafe situated in the Conrad International Hurghada Resort.

Nightlife

• A while back Hurghada's nightlife scene was confined to a few divers unwinding with a drink or two after a hard day's underwater exploration. What a difference a few years can make! Nowadays this is definitely the place to party on the Red Sea, with all kinds of evening fun and frolics for all ages, including bars, discos, clubs, live bands, karaoke, quiz nights, foam parties, beach barbecues, billiards, bowling and sophisticated cocktail lounges. You get the picture. It's no coincidence world-famous chains like Hard Rock Cafe and Ministry of Sound have opened up here. They know a good market when they see one. The majority of the action is in downtown Hurghada, but you don't have to head into the heart of town to find some after dark diversion. Most of the bigger hotels offer some form of evening entertainment, including live music, floor shows and Egyptian themed nights. Alternatively, if you want to soak up some true Egyptian atmosphere and mingle with the locals, try one of the 'shisha' bars scattered around the town. No indoor smoking ban here! Puff to your heart's content on a bubbling 'hookah' water pipe with traditional Egyptian music providing the soundtrack. Or how about the '1001 Nights Show'? It takes place every night at the Fantasia Alf Leila Wa Leila Hotel - it's an extravaganza of exotic delights, including traditional Egyptian food, entertainment tracing Egyptian culture through the ages, sound and light displays, belly dancers and performing horses.
  
  
• Papa's, El Sakia This is probably Hurghada's most famous nightspot, offering a wide variety of entertainment, including big-screen football, pool tables, beach parties, theme nights, live bands and top DJs from all over Europe. Part of the complex is under the 'Ministry of Sound' banner.
  
  
• Hard Rock Cafe, Hurghada Situated on the coastal road in Alnawara, this branch of the world famous chain needs little introduction. It's Hard Rock through and through, with an extensive collection of rock memorabilia, food, cocktails, live music and DJs.
  
  
• Palladium, El Gouna This ultra-trendy disco-come-club offers al fresco dancing to the latest sounds until the early hours. It's got the latest technology, including a stunning laser light show.
  
  
• Shisha Corner Bar, Hilton Hotel, Hurghada Relax on low Arabic-style seats and rugs and experience a hubbly bubbly pipe at this stylish beachfront bar.
  
  
• Casino, Intercontinental Hotel The only casino in Hurghada. Try your luck at blackjack, poker, roulette and slot machines.

Shopping

Hurghada offers the entire spectrum of shopping emporia, from modern malls to backstreet bazaars. There are plenty of tourist-orientated shops close to the seafront and the main hotels. Or for mall-style shopping there's the Market Place Shopping Centre on Ad-Dahar or the Esplanada, close to the Giftun Beach Resort. For a more authentically Egyptian experience it's worth heading for El Dahar. This is the home of the city's main souk, where spice stalls flavour the air and the calls of market traders mingle with the sounds of braying donkeys and hooting car horns. It's also the place to pick up a bargain. Some shops have fixed prices, but you can expect to be able to haggle in most of Hurghada's retail outlets, and particularly in the bazaars of Dahar, where you'll find the final price can be anything up to two thirds less than the first one quoted. Jewellery, leather goods and perfume are just a few of the best buys. Or maybe you'd prefer one of those famous colourful Egyptian rugs. If you can't cram it in your case, there's a good chance they'll be happy to ship it to you for a charge. Then, of course, there's reasonably priced Egyptian cotton, renowned the world over for its high quality. Corniche Street is the place for authentic Bedouin handicrafts. There you'll find a good selection of souvenir shops selling attractive items of jewellery and cute dolls, many of which make good, easy-to-pack presents for friends and family back home.

Local information

Explore the amazing coral reefs and tropical sea life on one of the many boats trips. Desert safaris are also available or take an excursion out to the historical cities of Cairo and Luxor for a glimpse of Egypt's colourful past.

Location

250km northeast of Luxor and 490km south of Cairo

Transfer time

10 to 30 minutes from Hurghada airport or 5 hours to 5 hours 30 minutes from Luxor for guests on a twin centre holiday.