Guide to Gambia

Beaches

Gambia's a beach lover's dream. Every one of its shores comes fully dressed in pearly white sands and sapphire seas, accessorised perfectly with gently nodding palm trees. But that's not to say they're all carbon copies of each other. Far from it. Take Bijilo for instance. This unspoilt stretch of coast has a real Robinson Crusoe vibe about it. Until a beach seller offers you a slice of fresh fruit, that is. Over in Bakau and Fajara, things are a bit livelier. Here, it's all large scale 'locals vs visitors' volleyball games, with plenty of sunbathing spectators. The high priests of Gambian coastline are undoubtedly Kotu, Kololi and Cape Point. These sun-soaked sweeps are big, bold and bustling with action. And the warm, clear waters make them a magnet for watersports enthusiasts, who zig-zag across the waters on windsurfers and mini sailing boats.

Eating out

Believe it or not, but Gambia's fast becoming a hotspot for top notch cuisine. In recent years, the country's been flooded with first class restaurants and a la carte dishes. They even got their own Jamie Oliver in the form of Driss Bensouda. Channel hoppers may have caught his cookery show on Sky TV, which is broadcast from his restaurant, The Butcher's Shop. Located in the fashionable area of Fajara, it revolves around hearty ingredients from their organic greengrocer, in-house butchery and bakery. Simple dishes like chicken 'yassa' and lemon spiced stew are remixed, sprinkled with a bit of a culinary magic, then given a contemporary twist. Just round the corner is the Ngala Lodge, which is head of the class when it comes to food with a view. Here, you can sit in the sun with a chilled melon soup and soak up the jaw-dropping view of the Atlantic. And not to be outdone, the rooftop Yok restaurant serves up some tasty Lebanese dishes with a to-die-for view of the city. But if you really want all-out extravagance, there's only one place to – The Avocado Restaurant. Based in Kololi's Coconut Residence Hotel, it's widely considered the country's best restaurant – and with good reason. Whether you're taking an early champagne breakfast or tucking into pan fried ladyfish, it's an experience that's out of this world. Of course, you may prefer to shun the high life and live like a local. If that's the case, you need get down with some street food, which can be found wherever you go. For a few Delasis you can sample starchy staples like millet, rice and yams, or thick vegetable stews cooked on an open fire. And don't forget to try something from the sizzling grill, where chicken, beef and pork are mixed with onions and spices for an extra kick.

• Avocado Restaurant, Serrekunda – This poolside restaurant offers five star treatment with a menu to match.
• Harmattan, Kotu – With a menu of traditional treats and pan-African musicians playing for your pleasure, this is a two-for-one of fine food and fabulous entertainment.
• Henry's Bistro, Kololi – Henry's one of the most established chefs in the country and all of his expertise has been poured into Gambia's newest bistro. He personally sources all the local produce and writes up a daily menu of lip-smacking specials. Definitely one to watch.
• Gaya Art Cafe, Senegambia – Often referred to as an Aladdin's Cave, this place offers a little bit of everything. From Spanish tapas to fiery Asian dishes, you can go around the world without ever leaving your seat. And it may sound like an odd setting, but this art and craft shops offers a real touch of class.
• Scala, Kololi – This Danish-run eatery has built a solid reputation since opening nearly twenty years ago. Their a la carte menu's famous for its pan-fried steaks, but there's plenty more on offer. And don't forget to grab a drink at the mock-Tudor Gaslight bar.

Nightlife

Nightlife tends to revolve around the hotels, with African folklore shows and dancing a regular fixture. But that's by no means the extent of after dark fun. The liveliest place is around 'The Strip' in Kololi. With its mixture of restaurants, bars and small clubs, you can pretty much begin and end your evening right here. The locals tend to hang around the pool halls, which you'll hear before you see. Follow the booming sound of rumbling reggae music and you're sure to strike gold. On the flipside, there are more than enough places where Western influence rules. These are a bubbly mixture of fruity cocktails, bouncing Euro pop and booty shaking R&B. And if you're partial to a bit of hip hop, you may be surprised to know that Gambia's become a bit of a hot spot for MCs. It's got a strong but up-and-coming scene, so check out some of the top clubs in Banjul and Serrekunda. Of course, not everyone wants loud music and all night dancing. You'll find plenty of chilled-out beach bars around the likes of Kotu and Fajara, so pull up a chair, order a Julbrew beer, and watch the sun set over a glistening shore.

• Bounce, Kololi – This popular sports bar's popular with locals and tourists, who come to shoot some serious pool. If you want to blend in, sip a shot, chalk your cue, then show everyone that Paul Newman's got nothing on you.
• Aquarius Bar and Disco, Senegambia –This is one of Gambia's trendiest hotspots. Resident DJs pump out the tunes, while the young and hip dance well into the early hours.
• Chapman's and Calypso, Bakau – For an evening of relaxation, you can't beat a fabulous seafront setting. The perfect accompaniment to the beautiful scenery is live music and a cold glass of Julbrew, the local beer.
• The African Queen Bar, Senegambia – If cocktails are your thing, check out this buzzing bar. Pick something from the menu, or ask for one of the famous fruity liqueurs.
• McMahons Irish Bar, Senegambia – Irish bars are always cosy and friendly – and this is no exception. It's one of the only places in the country that serves draught Guinness, which is hugely popular with local folk.

Shopping

Gambia's definitely no Paris in the shopping stakes. But that's no bad thing. This place is all about roots and culture rather than boots and couture. So prepare for a mixture of ethnic shops and local colour. Seasoned shoppers can dive in at the deep end with a trip to Banjul's fast and frantic Albert Market. As you walk in, a mass of frantic traders bellow out their deals in a flurry of arm waving. The stalls are filled with an avalanche of handicrafts, like sand paintings, batik prints, and of course, African wooden carvings. Clothes-wise, Serrakunda's market's where it's at. This place is jam-packed with colourful sarongs, leather shoes and brightly-coloured beach wear. And if you can't resist the lure of fresh fruit and veg, look no further than Bakau's food market. Of course, if you're going to make any form of purchase, you need to learn how to haggle. Everything can be bartered for and tradesmen are always keen to strike a deal. If you're sharp and stand your ground, you can usually reduce a sale by around fifty percent.