Guide to Jamaica

Beaches

Remember THAT scene from James Bond? The one where Ursula Andress waded sexily from the sea? Well, it was filmed here. Well it stands to reason - the only beach that could share the screen equally with such beauty had to lie in the Caribbean. And tropical beaches are what Jamaica does best. There are creamy-white sands that seem to stretch forever. Nodding coconut palms tickling rush-roofed beach bars. And the brightest blue seas you've ever seen. Some of the finest sweeps come courtesy of Montego Bay. This world-renowned resort owes its fame to its bliss-inducing sands and translucent blue waters. At lively Doctor's Bay, sands dissolve into aquamarine waters against a paradise panorama of palms, open-air restaurants and green mountains. And if we're talking beauty contests, Walter Fletcher beach gives its neighbour a run for its money with its sweeping arc of white. To the west, Negril offers up more of the same. As well as Bloody Bay, Seven Mile Beach is seriously beautiful. And ridiculously long. Cue the sands as soft as talc, turquoise shallows as warm as a hot tub and palms rustling up perfect pools of shade for sipping those rum punches. It's good for snorkellers, too. Just head for the West End. Here, chunky rocks drop into lime-green waters choc-full of fish. Talking of snorkelling, flipper fiends will love Ochos Rios. All along the coast here, the waters hide a spectacular coral reef bursting with sea life. And if you're more of a landlubber, Ochos Rios' beaches won't disappoint. From the sexily named James Bond beach to main Turtle Beach, it's one sun-bleached sliver after another. And let's not forget Falmouth. Quieter than the bigger resort numbers, the beaches here are to die for - all Bounty-like sands and ultramarine waters mingling with shady palm groves.

Eating out

As you'd expect, fish and seafood take centre stage in Jamaica. It's served everywhere, from casual beach bars and roadside stalls to the luxury hotels. Expect ultra-fresh slabs of tuna and snapper drawn the same day. Lip-smacking lobster, conch and shrimp served with pasta, rice'n'peas or spindly chips. For a taste of traditional Jamaica, don't miss 'ackee and saltfish'. This hearty combo of salted cod and 'ackee' - a yam-like vegetable – is a breakfast and lunchtime staple. Another must-try is 'jerk' chicken or pork. The meat cuts are marinated in peppery 'jerk' sauce before being slow-cooked until they're unbelievably tender. Give Jamaica's hot sauce a whirl – it's on every table. Made to a secret recipe, this tastebud-terrorising garnish contains super-hot 'Scotch bonnet' chillies, so approach it with caution. There's plenty to please pudding-wise, too. Cue succulently fresh papayas, coconuts and pineapples. And sweet bananas served as deliciously light fritters or delectable rum-drenched flambees. On the drinks front, it'd be a crime not to chill out over a refreshing 'Red Stripe' beer or two. Or for that matter, Jamaica's nectar-like rum. The most popular is 'Appleton's' white rum, which is mixed with everything from fresh juices to coconut milk. Oh, and don't forget Blue Mountain coffee. Cultivated in the misty Blue Mountains, this wonderfully mild brew is said to be the world's best. Finally, if you fancy feasting on familiar foods, don't fret. All the resort hotels serve toned-down Jamaican dishes and international cuisine. The same goes for the resorts themselves. Negril, Montego Bay and Ochos Rios all offer up steak houses, pasta restaurants and fast-food joints – so you can always fill up with the foods you love best.

Rick's Cafe, Negril This legendary clifftop venue is a whirl of wicker chairs, rum punches and Caribbean-American nosh. Come in the afternoons for the sideshow – daring locals jumping from the rocks into the turquoise waters below.

Evita's, Ochos Rios Fancy 'lasagne rastafari'? Or 'reggae-toni'? They're two of the Italian-Jamaican specials offered up at this celeb-favoured eaterie.

Marguerite's, Montego Bay Smart dress is in order at this waterfront fine dining spot. Serving classic Jamaican cuisine, it's great for high-class versions of 'ackee and saltfish'.

Kuyaba, Negril Sumptuous coconut curries. Super-fresh snapper drenched in orange sauce. And sublime banana flambees. The delights come thick and fast at this jungle-beach restaurant.

Glistening Waters Inn, Falmouth Tuck into traditional Jamaican cooking at this pretty wooden inn beside Falmouth's 'Luminous Lagoon'. Then take a boat trip to wow over the phosphorescent blue waters.

Nightlife

You're in for a treat when it comes to nightlife. Whether you're out for a laid-back reggae beach party, strobe-lit dance-fest or romantic sunset dinner, Jamaica's right on your wavelength. The focus of entertainment though is most definitely the resort hotels. Staying in one almost guarantees you a theme show, disco or live music every night, so it's easy to stay put. At some point though, you're bound to be tempted out to sample the local nightlife. And Montego Bay's the liveliest spot by a mile. Head for the Hip Strip and bop the night away to pulsating reggae, calypso or chart hits. Negril's no wallflower either. Norman Manley Boulevard is the epicentre. Here, party bars and hip waterholes coax you in with happy hours, sports screens and the irresistible strains of ska and reggaeton. But before you jump in, start out at the clifftop bars of the West End. Pull up a chair on the coral rocks above the azure waters and you'll have a ringside seat for a show-stopping sunset. In Ochos Rios too, the tempo's right up. All over town, funky bars, pubs and grills offer a seductive cocktail of sultry sounds and open-air dancefloors. If you like your evenings more sedate, Falmouth's your best bet. Here, casual beach bars and tropical restaurants rule the roost. But there's a special extra, too. Head for the famous Luminous Lagoon and you're in for a magical evening. As darkness falls, boats take you gliding over the lake, which fills with glow-in-the-dark microbes that cast the waters in a luminous blue hue. But wherever you are, there's always the pull of Jamaica's trademark beach bars. Plant yourself at one of these friendly shacks under the palms and you're in for a truly chilled-out night. Shake off your shoes and join the locals in their celebrations - jamming to reggae with the soft sands in your toes and a glitterball moon sparkling above.

The Jungle, Negril Dance yourself silly. Catch a big match. Or do battle with a one-armed bandit. This rainforest-styled nightspot and gaming haven offers a pick 'n' mix night of fun.

Amnesia, Ochos Rios If you're keen to get down with the locals, this no-frills club churns out awesome reggae over a fantastic rooftop dancefloor.

The Brewery, Montego Bay This turbo-charged bar-restaurant-club hosts rowdy disco nights, karaoke and reggae bands. Start with its 4-6pm Happy Hour and you're in for one long, memorable night.

Margaritaville, Montego Bay It's all happening at this hugely popular waterside club which pumps out sounds whilst its punters revel in its water slides and floating lilos.

Time 'n' Place, Falmouth Wallow in the plum-and-pink sunsets and seductive reggae beats of this bamboo beach bar outside Falmouth. Don't miss the killer daiquiris.

Shopping

Colourful stalls. Ritzy malls. And everything inbetween. Jamaica's got a mind-boggling retail repertoire that'll keep any shopper going for days. In the main resorts, you'll find innumerable shops and markets clamouring for your 'jays' - Jamaican dollars. In Montego Bay, the downtown area is the hub of activity. If you're after duty-free bargains, Gloucester Street is the place, while the surrounding roads brim with art galleries and wooden cabins touting brilliantly coloured sarongs, knick-knacks and bright, red-gold-and-green Rasta T-shirts. For something more upmarket, Montego Bay's malls take the honours. You'll find several, including the plush Bay West with its galaxy of artsy-craftsy shops and duty-free outlets. Negril's got plenty to tempt, too. Its Norman Manley Boulevard is stacked with tourist shops, whilst Seven Mile Beach is fringed with stalls selling local artwork and trinkets. And Ochos Rios is virtually a shopping mall in itself. As a cruise stop-off point, it's got a tide of duty-free stores, glamorous jewellers and modern arcades. But make sure you discover its rustic side. Behind Turtle Beach, colourful open-air markets set out their wares, letting you see the real Jamaica in full flow. But don't think the island's shopping is all about the resorts. The interior is a tropical treasure chest brimming with rum factories, potteries and coffee plantations where you can watch goods being made before snapping them up. And in most places, the shops come to you in the shape of street traders. Flashing wide, sunny grins and all manner of bric-a-brac, these friendly vendors practically beg you to haggle down their prices. Oh, and if you're wondering what to buy, the island's Blue Mountain coffee is a winner and sold everywhere. Duty-free electronics, perfumes and jewellery are all easy to come by, too. Wherever you go though, expect to see endless rich wooden Rasta face masks, hand-made rush baskets and psychedelically hued paintings, all cheek-to-jowl with cool, batik beachwear. And if there's one perfect take-home, it's Jamaican rum – the drink of choice of the island's 18th century pirates. Top of the list is Appleton's, but there are plenty of other varieties available at great prices. And if you're buying duty-free, you're entitled to a private 'yo,ho, ho' at how many pieces of eight you've saved.

Transfer time

Most transfers in Jamaica will not be accompanied by a Holiday Rep.