Guide to Messinia

Beaches

Kalamata's the business when it comes to sun-baked sands. All along the western Messinian coast and the Mani peninsula, you'll find sublime golden beaches that'll make you shudder with delight. Take Yialova. All around this pretty Messinian village, duvet-soft sands hug the shores and stay wonderfully quiet even during high summer. Just take your pick. Will it be Yialova's very own satin-gold expanse? More of the same at Dinari or Golden beach? Or how about Voidokoilia? One look at this sublime half-moon of sand and you'll be instantly smitten. The waters are fantastic too - blissfully calm and family-friendly. Kyparissia is also hot on beaches. Further north on the Messinian coast, this vast bay is lined with huge expanses of silky sand fringed by crystal-clear waters and epic views. Around Koroni too, you'll find some stunners. Bask on Zaga beach – a breath-stopping four-kilometre stretch. Or wander along to Memi beach. Both are dotted with friendly tavernas so you'll have refreshments right on tap. And if you're wild about watersports, there's Finikounda just to the west. Over in the Mani, meanwhile, the beach picture jumbles up a bit more. Here, mountainous landscapes cascade down to sand-and-shingle bays and stony coves are tucked between the headlands. In and around Kardamyli there's a lovely town beach, not to mention a sensational swathe of smooth pebbles at Kalamitsi Bay. If you're passionate about beaches, you'll love the Kalamata region to bits.

Eating out

• Dreaming of some home cooking, Greek style? Then you're in the right place. The Kalamata region overflows with the kind of food that's been conjured up in Greek family kitchens for centuries. Nothing's been tweaked or tampered with for the sake of tourists' tastebuds – it's just good, old-fashioned and totally delicious Greek food. Cue roast suckling pig sprinkled with wild herbs. 'Spetzofai' – a tantalisingly spicy sausage, red pepper and tomato stew cooked on the oventop. 'Choriatako choirino' - sizzling lamb chops marinated in olive oil, lemon juice and oregano. And naturally, the freshest fish and seafood that's every passed your lips. Tender, tasty grilled octopus. Herb-infused mussel stews. Melt-in-your-mouth sea bream and red mullet. And then there's the ubiquitous Greek 'meze' line up. Tasty treats like rice-stuffed 'dolmades' and cool 'tsatsiki' dip. And of course, mountainous Greek salads topped with plump Kalamata olives. Still got room? Then dig into puddings made with some special regional goodies. Sticky 'baklava' drenched in sweet Mani honey. Messinian figs dolloped with fresh cream. Or Messinian 'pastelli'. The locals' favourite sweet, this sesame seed concoction is sometimes served as a dessert. The wines are great too. In fact, the Peloponnese is one of Greece's most prolific wine-producing regions. Favourites include the pink-hued Moshofilero whites and barrel reds from Nemea, sometimes called the 'Blood of Hercules' by the locals. Or keep things simple with a chilled 'retsina' or cold, cloudy 'ouzo'. They both taste fantastic outdoors, sipped slowly in the shade of a spreading plane tree.
  
  
• Lela's Tavern, Kardamyli - One of Kardamyli's oldest and finest, Lela's turns out traditional, home-cooked dishes that people rave about. Take a seat on the sea-facing terrace to feast on delights like rosemary chicken and pinch yourself you're not in heaven.
  
  
• Oasis, Yialova – Savour just-from-the-net fish and fantastic views over the harbour at this excellent small restaurant just east of the pier in Yialova.
  
  
• Restaurant 1930, Pylos – Something of a local legend, this atmospheric, family-run taverna mixes quirky wall murals with great Greek cooking and some terrific red barrel wines. Try their stuffed lamb wrapped in vine leaves –it's simply scrumptious.
  
  
• Kagkelarios, Koroni - This friendly quayside eaterie serves up exceptional fresh fish and seafood just unloaded from Koroni's fleet. Do as the locals do and pick what you want from the zoo of live creatures in its seawater aquarium.
  
  
• Pyrofani, Kalamata - Delicately fried courgette flowers. Roast peppers bulging with rice. And 'calamari' to die for. This charming blue-painted taverna tucked into Kalamata marina is an absolute gem. Miss it if you dare.

Nightlife

• Kalamata isn't one of those places where you sleep on the sands all day and live it up all night. In fact, it's pretty much the opposite. Wherever you are here – from Koroni to Kardamyli – evenings are definitely lazy, low-key affairs. Think long, lingering suppers at simple taverna tables bathed in flickering candlelight. Sundowners at a friendly beach bar as the waves rustle on the sands. And late-night nightcaps at cosy 'kafenions', chatting with new friends under a midnight moon. Having said all this, there are still ways to up the tempo if you're feeling energetic. Choose a taverna or bar staging a Greek dancing show and sing and clap along to the sounds of 'bouzouki' into the wee hours. It's foot-pounding stuff. And if the 'ouzo' flows, expect some head-pounding stuff the next morning! Out of all the Kalamata resorts though, Kardamyli's probably got the liveliest after-dark scene. Down by the waterfront, here you'll find a clutch of music bars and smoochy nighttime nooks to keep you away from your pillow. And just a cab ride down the coast there's Stoupa. Okay, it's hardly Ibiza Town. But its waterfront still ups the ante in the height of summer, with several lounge bars and even a couple of discos to keep you shimmying and swaying. Still hankering after something more happening? Then Kalamata it must be. The biggest town in these parts, it's got a good share of noisy bars and a few nightclubs too. Just hotfoot it to the beachfront and enjoy.
  
  
  
  
• Aman Cafe, Kardamyli Next door to Lela's Taverna, this stylish cafe-bar is a popular spot for downing fresh cocktails whilst wowing at Kardamyli's amazing west-coast sunsets.
  
  
• Beach Disco, Koroni Up for a balmy night on the dancefloor? Wander along the sands at Koroni and you'll find an outdoor disco slap bang by the sea. Okay, it's a bit rough and ready, but it pumps out high-decibel dance tunes and pop till late.
  
  
• Destino, Lampes Beach This newish beach bar and restaurant is not only swish, it comes with its own illuminated swimming pool for cooling off on sultry summer evenings. Top stuff.
  
  
• Kalohori, Methoni Phenomenal views. Brilliant cocktails. And a fun crowd who arrive in time for the fluorescent sunsets. This fantastically located taverna-bar sits up the hill from Methoni beach and is well worth a special trip.
  
  
• Palladium, Kalamata This chic nightclub on Kalamata's beachfront is the coolest haunt in town. Expect top DJs playing head-splitting techno and chart hits, and a frenzied dancefloor to boot.

Shopping

If it's authentic Greek souvenirs and trinkets you're after, then Kalamata won't let you down. Cute little gift shops, classy souvenir outlets and tucked-away village stores are all easy to come by wherever you are in the Mani or Messinia. In Koroni for instance, it's easy to lose a morning or two rummaging through the traditional shops and beach-gear boutiques hidden in its lanes. The same goes in Yialova and Kardamyli, where you'll find miniscule shops and retail nooks squeezed along the waterside and in the backstreets behind. What to buy? All the usual Greek handicrafts and favourite take-homes are here in force. Gold-smudged religious icons. Sandals made from soft leather. Smooth-stoned worry beads. Chunky silver rings and bracelets. They're all ripe for the picking. And make sure you get some culinary delicacies too. Jars stuffed with Kalamata olives that'll bring all your holiday memories flooding back with one twist of the lid. Heavenly honeys scented with thyme and herbs plucked from Maniot country lanes. Delectable calorie-crammed 'pastelli' – Messinia's beloved sesame-sprinkled sweets. And once you've worked through your souvenir list, who knows? You may have enough Euros and energy left for a 'treat myself' spree in Kalamata. This buzzing town has heaps of department stores and gift emporiums to keep you happy for a day. For trendy clothes and designer brands, head for Plateia Aristomenous and stroll along the roads radiating out. They're lined with chain stores and chi-chi boutiques. And literally everywhere you go, you'll come across fine antique shops, glitzy jewellers and classy gift stores that'll give your wallet a serious workout.