Guide to Umbria

Eating out

• Those in the know regard Umbria as one of Italy's gastronomic gems. It's rustic home cooking and the secret of most recipes is Umbrian olive oil. Infused with ingredients like orange peel and garlic, this straw-coloured nectar makes everything taste wonderfully rich and earthy. But there's plenty else to get stuck into. Think mountains of extra-thick spaghetti smothered in thick tomato sauce and slivers of creamy pecorino. Huge platters of succulent wild rabbit, boar, pigeon and suckling pig. And hearty soups made with pasta, wild mushrooms and lentils. But the real delicacy here is 'tartufo' - truffles. Umbria's forests are home to numerous black and white varieties, the most prized of which hail from Norcia. They bring a delicate touch to everything from ravioli and omelettes to sauces and stews. And if you're anywhere near Lake Trasimeno, don't miss the local speciality of just-netted, wood-fired carp. Another must is 'torta al testo', Umbria's tasty, flat bread usually served with prosciutto. Leave space for puddings though. Umbrians love sticky cakes made with dried fruits, honey and almonds. They're usually accompanied by Vin Santo wine. Talking of which, wine lovers will be in their element here. Popular varieties include Orvieto Classico - a delightful, light white from the hills around Orvieto – and the gutsy reds and whites of Torgiano, Montefalco and Colli Trasimeno. A word about restaurants. Wherever you are in Umbria, you're never far from a cosy trattoria or smart ristorante. You'll find a great choice in places like Gubbio, Assisi and Panicale and often, you'll find the best ones tucked down the backstreets. The countryside's great for eating out, too. From Montone to Passignano, you'll stumble across rustic farmhouse eateries and village nooks dishing up Umbria's robust recipes.
  
  
• Taverna del Buchetto, Gubbio – Always crowded, this atmospheric haunt specialises in simple country fare. Don't miss the grilled mutton or wood-fired pizzas.
  
  
• Osteria del Gambero, Perugia – If you're keen to sample Umbria's legendary truffles, hotfoot it to this contemporary-style eaterie behind Perugia's Duomo. Its tasting menu is great for road testing the region's black truffles and is great value, too.
  
  
• La Stalla, Assisi – Stone walls where animal stalls once stood. Wobbly communal tables. And a noisy atmosphere that matches the back-to-basics menu. This popular trattoria just outside Assisi couldn't be more rustic if it tried.
  
  
• Grotte del Funaro, Orvieto – Drink in the views over Umbria's undulating hills as you feast on roast suckling pig at this long-standing favourite, known for its large portions.
  
  
• La Locanda del Capitano, Montone – Delectable truffles. Rich sauces. And a cellar overflowing with 700 local wines. Booking is essential at this swish town-centre gem.

Nightlife

• The best word for Umbria after-dark is understated. Not many people come here for partying. And if they do, most find that Perugia's their place. Belying its gentle medieval charms, Umbria's capital rules the roost when it comes to nightlife due to its student population. From funky music clubs and crowded drinking dens to ultra-cool warehouse-style discos, the whole city is a firecracker after dark. In contrast, pretty much everywhere else is made for chilled-out nights. Think candlelit suppers in atmospheric, low-beamed trattorias. Cappuccinos in sun-streaked piazzas as the daytime crowds melt into locals on their ritual evening 'passiegata'. And a glass of prosecco before an opera. You'll find some livelier haunts in towns like Assisi and Gubbio. Slip into their sidestreets and you'll discover a few late-night wine bars and the odd disco bar favoured by Umbria's young and trendy set. Talking of music, jazz is a big hit here. The locals love it and summer is the perfect excuse to indulge their passion. Between June and September, you'll find outdoor concerts aplenty, filling the piazzas of places like Panicale and Perugia with its mellow strains. Many of Umbria's cultural events and 'sagra' festivals run into the night, too. Originally staged on feast days, sagras are held in small villages and see the locals carousing for a whole week or more. Cue food tents serving wild boar and fresh farm-grown delicacies. Makeshift dancefloors where whole families spin and sway. And colourful carnival stalls offering games and sweets. Everyone's invited – just ask the locals or look for 'sagra' on posters and noticeboards to find the nearest one.
  
  
• Bar Gallo, Panicale – Sip on starlit sambucas and chill to the open-air jazz concerts staged by this family-run bar on Panicale's piazza. You won't be alone – the whole towns turns out for these summer shindigs.
  
  
• Mancinelli Theatre, Orvieto – Fancy some culture? Then get your fix at this beautiful theatre, which hosts regular high-art operas and classical concerts. Soak up the sophisticated atmosphere, down some proseccos after the show and you've got yourself the perfect Italian evening.
  
  
• Loop Cafe, Perugia – Mingle with Perugia's in-crowd at this cosy, standing-room-only club, which switches from a daytime coffee bar into the city's hippest music venue come night.
  
  
• Pocoloco, Assisi – All crystal chandeliers and hip fashionistas, this out-of-town palace is no wallflower. Big, brash and boisterous, it thumps out techno and club anthems - the perfect antidote to Assisi's medieval charms.
  
  
• Follia, Perugia – Beloved by Perugia students, this funky club plays an intoxicating mix of trance, hip-hop and techno to keep you pounding the floor till very, very late.

Shopping

Dreaming of D&G? Aching for some Armani? The truth is that when it comes to hot-off-the-catwalk designer gear, Umbria's pretty low down in the Italian city rankings. But if you can't help yourself on the fashion front, you'll find some great places to shop in Perugia. Just trot along the main shopping street, Corso Vanuccio, and you'll hit queues of chi-chi boutiques and swanky shoe shops. Then head for the modern part of town, where you'll find the heavyweight department and chain stores. And while you're here, pick up some Baci chocolates. Perugia is famous for these hazelnutty 'chocolate kisses', which come with little love mottos tucked in their wrappers. If you're after some top labels – but without the sky-high price tags - head east to the Valdichiani Mall on the border with Tuscany. Heaving with cut-price designer outlets, it's a honeypot for penny-watching fashionistas. Outside of Perugia though, Umbrian shopping takes on a more rustic feel. In places like Assisi and Gubbio, the cobbled streets turn up artisan shops stuffed with locally made ceramics, wrought ironwork, silk scarves and cashmere sweaters. And as you'd expect, Assisi does a roaring trade in religious mementoes. Look a bit closer and you'll also spy colourful Assisi 'stitch'. This intricate embroidery is sewn in bright geometrical designs and adorns everything from tablecloths to scarves and linen. And if you like lacework, take a tour around Orvieto and the villages of Lake Trasimeno, where traditional lace making is a flourishing cottage industry. Deruta's another goldmine. This southern Umbrian town is a centre for Majolica ceramics and creaks under the weight of luminously coloured, hand-painted vases, dishes and tiles. Whatever else you do though, set some money aside for Umbria's produce. Every other shop seems to be a culinary shrine. Think shelves and shelves of infused olive oil and hanging curtains of chunky hams and pungent salamis. Truffles are the big draw. No less than nine varieties of these highly prized delicacies grow in Umbria's forests, ranging from the precious white variety to ink-black nuggets the size of apples. You'll find some real goodies in Umbria's outdoor markets, too. Its hilltop towns erupt into colourful stall fests almost every week. Take Orvieto. On Saturdays and Thursdays, the main shopping street welcomes stands piled with vegetables fresh from local farms. It's the same in Gubbio, Panicale and Assisi and the smaller villages, too. And don't forget the wines. The countryside is laden with vineyards where you can buy Umbria's fruity tipples direct from the makers.

Location

Italy