Guide to Montenegro

Beaches

For a country that would fit into Britain 17 times, Montenegro has an impressive amount of beaches. Sandwiched between Croatia and Albania, its 200-mile coastline notches up over 100 beaches. And they're not carbon copies either. From cute pebble coves to sweeping sandy bays, you'll find pretty much whatever it is you're looking for. The shores here can also count themselves among Europe's most beautiful, thanks to their mountain backdrops and woodlands. What's more, they all boast gin-clear seas that have to be seen to be believed. Milocer Beach is a 380-metre strip of crumpet-coloured sands backed by a forest. Then just around the bay there's Becici Beach. One of the largest and loveliest on the Adriatic, its scalloped white sands are backed by hotels and hills. And whatever you do, don't miss a stint on Sveti Stefan Island, just an easy boat hop away. If Montenegro had its own Monopoly board, this is one that'd sit in the Mayfair slot. A tiny splodge of higgledy-piggledy lanes and dinky beaches, it was named as one of The Times' 20 style destinations for 2008. Enough said.

Eating out

• Those planning to hit Montenegro's restaurants are in for a couple of surprises. The first is the ever-present speciality of 'crap'. No, it's not a menu misprint – it's just how they spell 'carp' in this part of the world. So you can breathe a sigh of relief. And what the Montenegrins don't do with this fish is, well, not a lot. Smoked carp straight from Skadar Lake and baked carp with prune risotto both come highly recommended. The other surprise when it comes to eating out is the amount of choice. Obviously the country's a dab hand at seafood along the coast. Cue plates piled high with fresh catches of the day and fish stews swimming in white wine and herbs. But nudge your way inland and you'll come across dishes like 'kastradina' - dried lamb - and smoked ham and cheeses from Njeguski and Plevaljski. And as you head north, the food gets even heartier with authentic mountain recipes like lamb cooked in cream with potatoes smothered in cheese. More familiar flavours can be found at the barbeque joints - Montenegro's answer to fast food. Tuck into 'pljeskavica', the local hamburger, or sausages hot from the grill. Milocer has a good sprinkling of restaurants, but it's Budva and Becici that have the richest pickings. And for tipples, you can't go wrong with 'Niksicko' beer or Montenegrin wine like 'Vranac', 'Pro Corde' and 'Krstac'.
  
  
• Demizana, Budva Treat yourself to just-caught seafood at this fish restaurant on the promenade, not far from the old town.
  
  
• Pod Murvom, Becici Overlooking Becici's beautiful beach, this seafront restaurant serves a mean mixed grill.
  
  
• Picasso, Budva Go Italian the Montenegrin way at this popular pizzeria-come-pasta-parlour in the old town.
  
  
• Jadran kod Krsta, Budva For the freshest fish, pull up a chair at this popular promenade eatery near the old town.
  
  
• Regina, Budva Dine al fresco on the terrace and tuck into delicious pasta dishes and irresistible desserts.

Nightlife

• Montenegro's may not be the place to party 'til sun up but it's no wallflower either. In fact, most visitors are surprised by how sophisticated the nightlife is in the larger towns and cities. Busy bars, trendy jazz clubs and sleek discos catering to an international clientele all take their place on the after-dark scene. That's not to say you have to dress up to the nines though, there's a good selection of casual pavement cafes, too. Milocer tends to crank down rather than up come the evenings, with sunsets and dinners the main entertainment. Becici has more going on, mainly in the way of hotel bars, beachfront cafes and a few discos. The big player though is Budva – the Riviera's late-night hotspot. During summer, the open-air clubs along the promenade fill the air with pumping beats. And the resort attracts big-name bands, too like the Rolling Stones who played a gig on the beach in 2007. For the main hub of hangouts, head for the aptly-named Bar Street in the heart of the town.
  
  
• Trocadero, Budva Strut your stuff at this fun nightspot, one of the town's top clubs.
  
  
• Maximus, Kotor The name of this after-dark hotspot says it all – it's Montenegro's biggest nightclub.
  
  
• Garden, Budva Sitting at the heart of the city's park, this cafe is cosy, friendly and spills out finger-snapping jazz tunes.
  
  
• Hacienda, Budva Sip exotic cocktails at this funky Latino bar, which pumps out the sounds of the Son Cuba Son Band.
  
  
• Forza, Kotor This famous pastry shop sits in the main square of the old town and serves cakes and ice-cream late into the night.

Shopping

Montenegro knows it's not on the hip and happening shopping map. But that's not what holidays here are about. That said, head into the heart of Becici and there's a hub of stores selling a fair few designer names. And neighbouring Budva boasts the largest tourist centre in the country. But the real shopping delights tend to be the places you happen to stumble on. Do your best to check out a market while you're here. Full of atmosphere, the friendly traders - who will tell you their life story given the chance – can't fail to win you over. Stalls groan under the weight of clothes and souvenirs. Plus you'll find makeshift cafes serving beer and 'evapii' - small grilled meat rolls. The real bargains to hunt out are the crafts unique to Montenegro. Topping the take-home list is filigree jewellery, hand-carved ornaments and leather goods are a good bet, too. Other good buys include speciality cheeses like Njegusi, Montenegrin coffee and Vranac red wine.