Guide to Sri Lanka

Beaches

We could wax lyrical about Sri Lanka's beaches all day. With over a thousand miles lassoing the coastline, it's stellar slice after stellar slice. And they're the classic Indian Ocean deal, too. White sands. Turquoise seas. And the all-important tropical beach accessory - bouquets of palm trees. But that's nothing compared to actually sinking your toes into the real thing here – it's like stepping into a field of icing sugar. The star sweep here is Unawatuna, which consistently clinches a spot in the Discovery Channel's 'World's Best Beaches' list. And that's in the top twelve, no less. Fame does have a downside though. Its sands are a big crowd puller. There are plenty of lower-key places that have pinched a few ideas from the island's flagship beach though. Take Waikkal. Not only has it swiped a snaking coastline with silvery-coloured sands, but it's fairly footprint-free. Beruwela's worth a mention, too. Its sands are wide enough to land a jumbo jet on. Or try the blonde bombshells of Ahungalla and Negombo which are a big hit with sun-worshippers. And if watersports are on the agenda, Bentota has two playgrounds - the sea and an inland lagoon, which is a hotspot for windsurfing and jet-skiing.

Eating out

• Sri Lankan cuisine is definitely something to get fired up about. The big shot here is curry - the national dish. Laced with home-grown ingredients like turmeric, chillies and peppers, they really wake your taste buds up. Luckily, they're naturally colour-coded, so you can plump for your own fieriness level. Black and white curries are the most easy-going, soothed with delicate coconut milk. Yellow ones, made with plenty of turmeric, step the kick up a notch. And traffic light red is for the flaming hot brigade. Of course, rice goes hand in hand with the hot stuff, often baked in a banana leaf and served with vegetables. And it's all usually escorted by a big plate of poppadoms to crunch your way through. If that all sounds like too much to handle, there's plenty more on the menus. Being an island, seafood's a pretty big deal here, so get messy with lobster or tuck into juicy jumbo prawns. And the hotels always serve up a safety net of familiar dishes. The main culinary hotspot is Colombo, where restaurants, fast food joints and cafes tempt you with everything from sushi to steaks. If you don't want to head into the big smoke though, the beachfront eateries are good bets, too. And let's face it - what's better than dining to the sound of the waves? On the drinks front, anything thirst-quenching goes. Coconut water and a cup of the famous Ceylon tea go down a treat. Or take a walk on the wild side and knock back an 'arrack' or two, a local spirit made from coconut palm.
  
  
• Bistro Latino, Colombo Go Mexican at this fun and friendly bar which along with great food and margaritas, offers free salsa lessons to diners on Tue, Fri and Sat.
  
  
• Silva's Beach Restaurant, Negombo Atmosphere's don't come any friendlier than this beachfront eatery where the fresh-from-the-net seafood is fantastic.
  
  
• Ayubowan, Bentota Sitting in pretty gardens, this open terrace restaurant has great local food on the menu as well as pizza, pasta and the like.
  
  
• Century Cafe Lounge, Negombo Housed in a colonial mansion, this beautifully renovated coffee house serves high tea, sandwiches and the best espresso in town.
  
  
• Tree Tops, Kalutara Sat up in sky scraping palm trees above the beach, this simple decked terrace serves home cooked food with ocean views on the side.

Nightlife

• Like its island neighbours, evenings in Sri Lanka tend to crank down rather than up. But laid-back nights are part of the appeal. Pull up a chair in one of the beachside bars or restaurants as the blazing sun sets. It's the best show in town. And after dark - a good meal, a few drinks and maybe a moonlit stroll are the norm. There are a few exceptions to the rule though. Negombo and Beruwela have a bit more night-time pizzazz than the other resorts with a decent set of bars. If you want to up the ante though, Colombo is the place to head. Fuelled by a growing going-out culture, more nightspots are popping up every year. From trendy 'be seen' bars to sports-screen pubs, it's all on tap. And even though it's no Vegas, plenty of casinos scream for your attention, too, flashing their neon lights at you.
  
  
• Glow Bar, Colombo With a modern, minimalist design, this is one of Sri Lanka's coolest bars. Definitely the place to see and be seen.
  
  
• The Blue Elephant, Colombo Housed in Colombo's Hilton, this is the hottest nightclub in town. A late spot, it doesn't get going until after midnight.
  
  
• Zanzibar, Colombo Smooth and sophisticated, this laid-back bar has live jazz and soul evenings. Wunderbar
  
  
• Sea Lounge Bar, Bentota Part of the Taj Exotica hotel, this is an elegant bar by day and a hip hangout by night with live music and cocktails.
  
  
• Club Tropicana, Negombo After you've hit the bars, try this lively disco which takes you dancing into the early hours.

Shopping

You could well find yourself doing a double take when you're shopping in Sri Lanka. The textile industry is BIG and stacks of clothes made here find their way onto our high streets. Of course, here though, they're a snip – great news for your wallet. The best place to fritter your rupees is in Colombo. A full-on city, it's a good starting point thanks to the malls. The sleekest is Crescat Boulevard. Also check out 'Odel' in Alexandra Place, which sells surplus stocks with bargain price tags, and 'Barefoot' in Galle Road, a world-class stop for boutique-style togs. For something a little more authentic 'Paradise Road' on Dharmapala Mawatha Street is stacked with chic Asian antiques and top-end crafts designed on the island. If you're more of a root-and-rummage shopper, Sri Lanka's markets are superb souvenir-hunting territory. Side step into one of the alleys where hooting tuk-tuks buzz by stalls selling batik scarves and hand-made lace. The road into Beruwela has a strip of shops and little stalls. Look out for the fierce masks, which come from Ambalangoda in the southwest and, of course, tea - fresh from the highlands. And if you really want to experience local life, head to one of the fish markets, where the stalls are piled high with seafood on ice.